Tuesday, 20 September 2011

Benidorm Blues

I have returned from an enjoyable and incredibly relaxing holiday! I have never needed a holiday more in my life, and seven hot days of Spanish sun has refreshed me and revitalised my spirits. 

I travelled with 15 others, family and friends, last week, for my Dad's and Uncle's joint 50th. Ten years ago the family embarked on a trip to Blackpool to celebrate their 40th birthdays, so this year we upgraded to the Spanish Blackpool - Benidorm - to celebrate another decade.

The weather was amazingly hot all week, and I managed two whole days sunbathing; then the parasol came out to protect my pastey skin. We all enjoyed great food, three times a day in our lovely hotel, before heading out to tour the bars. Drinks began at cheap bars close to our hotel, largely with English clienteles. Then after a few one euro beers the younger ones of the group (30 and under) proceeded to experience Benidorm night life along the strip. I experienced my first strippers; male and female, and was intrigued by the audience response to both. I saw hen dos and stags dos, families at strip clubs and an array of awful cabaret.

When immersed in the bizarre culture of Benidorm, you sort of 'go with the flow', but on the penultimate night I returned to my hotel early and looked out at the concrete jungle from my balcony. Every direction I looked to, I saw ugly skyscrapers or chaotic bars smothered in flashing lights. I felt emotional, because I knew what a beautiful coast laid just beyond these boozy buildings. The best sandy beaches I've ever seen, stunning jagged horizons and ocean snapshots were so close, and I couldn't see a grain of it because this tourist-infatuated, British-obsessed mess was in the way. I felt ashamed to be English, because all the stereotypes that are attached to our nationality, particularly to us northerners, were here; Benidorm - the living proof. When I'd made all my judgements and placed hatred on this Spanish tourist resort, I went inside to bed, feeling defeated.

But the next day, my partner forced me to go snorkelling in the sea, despite my protests and failed first attempts at breathing through my mouth rather than my nose. I have done a lot in my life, thanks to my parents who gave me so many opportunities as a child. I have tried many activities, been many different places, but I can honestly say snorkelling on Benidorm beach is one of the best things I have ever done. When I eventually climbed out of the sea (after three hours underwater!), my opinions of Benidorm had changed.

I swam with schools of colourful fish, all shapes and sizes, all reflecting the light differently, but all looking at me friendlily and swimming along with me. I could have touched them when I reached out if they didn't instinctively swim away from my grasp. They were so close, so beautiful and so real.

We eventually had to leave the sea to get ready for our evening meal, so we returned to shore, reluctantly. Benidorm may be a bigger, more bustling Blackpool, it may be full of repetitive acts attracting the same crowds year in year out, but behind all that was a blue, blue ocean full of beautiful creatures, welcoming you, from the stunning sandy shores, into their home. Even if I couldn't see it all from my balcony, I now knew there was so much more to Benidorm, and you don't have to be a stereotypical Brit to reap the benefits.

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